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By Bailey Prost. Fence. Published at Wednesday, March 14th, 2018 - 03:23:02 AM.

Picture Frame Fence The picture frame fence is a more decorative variation of privacy fencing. Its name comes from the vertical posts and horizontal rails that frame the sections of fencing. The framing adds both charm and opportunities for customization. You can select the board height, the number of boards each frame will contain and whether or not the frame and boards will match. You can also embellish a picture frame fence with additional wood trim.

Fencing-Each type of fencing has its own installation methods. Wood fencing can be cut with a hand or circular saw for both height and length if necessary. Use good quality galvanized nails or screws to affix the wood panels to your posts. Nail at least 12 on center to assure good support for the panels. Wind can cause severe damage to a fence that is not nailed properly. Keep the panel tops level. Nothing looks worse than a fence with sloping or uneven tops. If the ground level changes, make a step in the top of the fence to accommodate the slope, but in all cases keep the top level. Many states have laws regarding who gets to see the good side of the fence. In my area, the rear neighbor sees the bad side; the side neighbors see the good side. The front usually has the good side to the street for appearance. Your locality may have its own local laws governing this and front yard fence heights. Check first before your install your fence. Chain link fencing has a different set of installation rules and different equipment is needed to do the work. Post setting is basically the same except the posts are steel. Ask your retailer for post spacing recommendations for the height fence you purchased. After setting the posts and pouring the concrete, you must unroll the fence alongside the posts. Slide in an end bar which is a flat piece of metal the height of your fencing. Carefully standing the end of the fence up against the first post, place end clamps around the post and the end bar and insert the supplied bolts anchoring the fence to the post. Now when you stretch the fence, you are really pulling on the post and the bar not on the fencing itself. Wire ties come in differing lengths and gauges. A special wire tool is available that will bend the loop around the chain link. Ask your dealer. Pliers can be used but are lot a harder. Invest in the tool. Once you have the chain link fastened to the first post, you must stretch the fencing to obtain a taut condition between the posts. Chain link does stretch and will sag if not pulled tightly. By using another end bar, insert it at the other end of your fence run, at a corner or at least several posts away from your start point. Wrapping the come-a-long around the post and hooking to the end (termination) bar. By cranking the come-a-long up tight, you will pull the fence taut from end to end. Available at hardware or tool stores, Come-A-Long will hook to the post on one end and the hook will connect to the end or termination bar for pulling. By cranking the handle, you reel in the cable pulling the fencing taut. Once you have the fencing pulled tight, you can start installing the wires ties on the intermittent post, tying the fence to the posts. Using a minimum of three ties per post, place one on at the bottom, middle and the top of the post. Once all the posts are tied, you can carefully release the come-a-long and move on to the next section of fence. Corners are a bit tricky to get the fencing tight but after a few posts are done, you will get the hang of it. Remember-Each time you end the fence, you must install an end or termination bar. A four foot fence requires at least three clamps per bar. If your fence is in excess of 4 feet, you may want to install a top rail to keep the fabric from bending or bowing between posts. You may of course use one on a 4 foot fence as well but it is generally not needed. If your fencing is for security or around a pool perhaps, you may also want to install a bottom rail to keep unwanted intruders from bowing the fence and slipping underneath. If your goal is to keep rodents from your garden, you can bury a foot or so of the fence fabric below ground as many rodents burrow only a few inches below grade. Plastic or PVC Fencing- These fences are generally high end (costly) products but due to their long lasting appearance and very low maintenance, are becoming very popular to day. Unless you enjoy staining your wood fence each year, this may be the way to go. Installation is basically the same as wood or chain link as far as post installation goes but extra care must be the rule when handling and screwing the sections together to avoid marring the PVC finish. A goof here in cutting or scratching the finish will be long lasting.

Lattice Top Fence The lattice top fence is a typical variation on privacy fencing, with a section of decorative lattice along the top. Creative homeowners can take this concept a step further by incorporating lattice sections into the body of the fence to create an interesting, semi-privacy effect. You can use a narrow section of lattice as the frame in a picture frame fence, or alternate lattice sections with solid boards.

INSTALLATION- Do we have all our materials? OK lets go. Starting in one corner, dig your first post hole. Dont cheat. A shallow hole will weaken your fence and shorten its life span. A 12 wide hole is acceptable for fence posts. Now continue down one side of the fence line until all the holes are dug. If you are using a pair of hand post hole diggers, your arms are now worn out. If you are using a power post hole auger that you rented, it should make short work of this chore. Place your two end posts in their holes. Plumb them using your 4 level and install two temporary braces on each to hold them plumb. With this done Im going to save your some work here. Pour a bag of the bagged of concrete into each hole DRY. OH, OH. Where is the concrete? You didnt get it? Did you write it down? If you look back I didnt tell you to. OK. Go get the concrete, you need a break anyway. Seriously, it is a good habit to start to write down all the items you need before you go shopping. It saves a lot of time and extra trips. OK now with a dry bag of concrete in each hole; hook up your garden hose without a nozzle. Start placing water on top of the dry concrete and by using your shovel to prod the concrete in an up and down motion and pushing the hose in and out of the concrete it will mix right in the hole. Dont make it too wet. Somewhat soupy is fine but try not to separate the ingredients with too much water. There are several brands of redi-mix bagged concrete available and they will all work this way. You can now start on the holes for the 2nd side while the concrete dries for the first two posts. Perform the same function with the next corner post and the 4th post until all corner posts are set in concrete. Go back to your first two posts. Using your string line, tie it to the first post and run it to the next corner post and tie it off making it as taught as you can between the posts. MAKE SURE THE STRING IS TIGHT AGAINST THE SAME SIDE OF BOTH POSTS. If you use the inside or outside it doesnt matter as long as they are both the same. Now you can install the mid posts without a lot of measuring. By simply pacing the post against the string, you will have them all in the same line. Check carefully that your spacing is correct between posts. The posts may be off center of the holes but thats OK. With all the posts in on one side, pour them in concrete. Try not to leave holes open overnight both for protection against rain and children or animals falling into them. Work your way around your fencing until all the posts are set.


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