By Jean Cheron. Fence. Published at Wednesday, February 27th, 2019 - 19:44:40 PM.
Outside influences When deciding to install an underground dog fence you might have a tendency to think only about keeping your pet home and from this perspective they usually work very well. There are, however, outside influences you should consider before purchasing and installing your fence. One of the biggest downfalls of an underground dog fence is that, while it will keep your dog in, it cannot keep other dogs, wildlife, predators or people out. If you live in a busy neighborhood with a lot of foot traffic or a lot of people walking their dogs past your boundary line you might want to consider keeping your boundary far back from these areas or installing a traditional fence of some kind in this area of your yard. While you and your dog know the fence is there other people cannot see the fence and your dog lurking near the boundary may frighten some people and may invite other dogs to enter the yard to say hello. Signs indicating an underground dog fence is in place might help but they can be unsightly and people unfamiliar with the technology might not trust it and still become frightened. If you live in area where other dogs run loose an underground dog fence may not be for you as there will be no way for you to keep these dogs from entering your yard. The same goes for wildlife that your dog may chase or predators that may attack your dog. Most predators are active in the evenings and after dark so with proper precautions such as keeping your dog inside during these times you can usually avoid problems. With wildlife some dogs will get so hot on the chase that they will run through the fence and get stuck on the outside with no way to get back in until you notice their transgression. A fence with stronger correction levels and more intensive training may overcome this problem.
Galvanized Metal Fence Post: Galvanized Metal Fence Post are my choice to use for fencing a backyard or changing out a rotted fence post. When they are installed correctly they can last a lifetime. Diameter of the hole they are to be cemented in to should be 8 - 10 inches and the depth should be a minimum of 30 inches and up to 48 inches. The type of soil and ground condition as well as the freeze line for your area will dictate this. They will cost a little more but in my opinion are worth the difference. Make sure that you get a heavy gauge like a.095 and put a dome cap on it so that it doesnt act like a rain gauge. The appearance is not as natural as wood fence post but this can be easily by boxing it with a fence board or two.
INSTALLATION- Layout-Carefully layout your fence line so you can measure the length, corner posts, gates, etc. that you will need for the job. Gates comes in 3, 4, 6 and 8 widths. Larger widths are available by special order. WRITE down the measurements. Do not try and remember when you get to the store. With your measurements in hand, get a beverage and we will figure out what you need. Corner posts are easy to count. How many corners have you put in the fence? Lets say 4 for this example. Write down 4 corner posts. Gates. How many do you want and what size? Is there lawn inside the fenced area? Do you have to go inside with your lawn tractor to mow? Make sure at least one gate is wide enough. Ok, we decided we need one 3 gate for a sidewalk and one 6 gate for mowing, cleaning, etc. WRITE it down on your materials list. In our example our fence is 36 long on each side to form a square. Gates are one in each of two sides. Therefore, the other two sides need 2 x 36 of fencing or 72. WRITE it down. One side has a 6 gate so 30 of fencing is required. The other gate is 3 wide so 33 of fencing is required for the last side. Now add all the fence figures together and we find we need 135 of fencing required. Posts-If we know the fencing we have chosen comes in 6 lengths we will need a post every 6 feet and each side of each gate. A little math shows we need 25 posts. One post every 6, plus one extra to hold the 3 gate. WRITE it down. You will use approximately one bag of bagged concrete per post for anything over 4 high. These are your basic materials plus some misc. nails and scrap lumber for braces are also required. Go purchase your items and place in the area they are to be installed. Pressure treated fence posts come in both round and square shapes. Lengths generally vary from 6 to 12 long. Why so long? If you are installing a 6 fence you will need to bury at least 3 feet in the ground to support it. That means a 9 post. Posts come in other wood types as well. Cedar, redwood, and willow posts are still available in some areas. Willow posts if left untreated can re-root and create a living fence in wet areas.
Fencing-Each type of fencing has its own installation methods. Wood fencing can be cut with a hand or circular saw for both height and length if necessary. Use good quality galvanized nails or screws to affix the wood panels to your posts. Nail at least 12 on center to assure good support for the panels. Wind can cause severe damage to a fence that is not nailed properly. Keep the panel tops level. Nothing looks worse than a fence with sloping or uneven tops. If the ground level changes, make a step in the top of the fence to accommodate the slope, but in all cases keep the top level. Many states have laws regarding who gets to see the good side of the fence. In my area, the rear neighbor sees the bad side; the side neighbors see the good side. The front usually has the good side to the street for appearance. Your locality may have its own local laws governing this and front yard fence heights. Check first before your install your fence. Chain link fencing has a different set of installation rules and different equipment is needed to do the work. Post setting is basically the same except the posts are steel. Ask your retailer for post spacing recommendations for the height fence you purchased. After setting the posts and pouring the concrete, you must unroll the fence alongside the posts. Slide in an end bar which is a flat piece of metal the height of your fencing. Carefully standing the end of the fence up against the first post, place end clamps around the post and the end bar and insert the supplied bolts anchoring the fence to the post. Now when you stretch the fence, you are really pulling on the post and the bar not on the fencing itself. Wire ties come in differing lengths and gauges. A special wire tool is available that will bend the loop around the chain link. Ask your dealer. Pliers can be used but are lot a harder. Invest in the tool. Once you have the chain link fastened to the first post, you must stretch the fencing to obtain a taut condition between the posts. Chain link does stretch and will sag if not pulled tightly. By using another end bar, insert it at the other end of your fence run, at a corner or at least several posts away from your start point. Wrapping the come-a-long around the post and hooking to the end (termination) bar. By cranking the come-a-long up tight, you will pull the fence taut from end to end. Available at hardware or tool stores, Come-A-Long will hook to the post on one end and the hook will connect to the end or termination bar for pulling. By cranking the handle, you reel in the cable pulling the fencing taut. Once you have the fencing pulled tight, you can start installing the wires ties on the intermittent post, tying the fence to the posts. Using a minimum of three ties per post, place one on at the bottom, middle and the top of the post. Once all the posts are tied, you can carefully release the come-a-long and move on to the next section of fence. Corners are a bit tricky to get the fencing tight but after a few posts are done, you will get the hang of it. Remember-Each time you end the fence, you must install an end or termination bar. A four foot fence requires at least three clamps per bar. If your fence is in excess of 4 feet, you may want to install a top rail to keep the fabric from bending or bowing between posts. You may of course use one on a 4 foot fence as well but it is generally not needed. If your fencing is for security or around a pool perhaps, you may also want to install a bottom rail to keep unwanted intruders from bowing the fence and slipping underneath. If your goal is to keep rodents from your garden, you can bury a foot or so of the fence fabric below ground as many rodents burrow only a few inches below grade. Plastic or PVC Fencing- These fences are generally high end (costly) products but due to their long lasting appearance and very low maintenance, are becoming very popular to day. Unless you enjoy staining your wood fence each year, this may be the way to go. Installation is basically the same as wood or chain link as far as post installation goes but extra care must be the rule when handling and screwing the sections together to avoid marring the PVC finish. A goof here in cutting or scratching the finish will be long lasting.
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