Published at Wednesday, February 27th, 2019 - 10:14:00 AM. Fence. By Montague Jamet.
INSTALLATION- Layout-Carefully layout your fence line so you can measure the length, corner posts, gates, etc. that you will need for the job. Gates comes in 3, 4, 6 and 8 widths. Larger widths are available by special order. WRITE down the measurements. Do not try and remember when you get to the store. With your measurements in hand, get a beverage and we will figure out what you need. Corner posts are easy to count. How many corners have you put in the fence? Lets say 4 for this example. Write down 4 corner posts. Gates. How many do you want and what size? Is there lawn inside the fenced area? Do you have to go inside with your lawn tractor to mow? Make sure at least one gate is wide enough. Ok, we decided we need one 3 gate for a sidewalk and one 6 gate for mowing, cleaning, etc. WRITE it down on your materials list. In our example our fence is 36 long on each side to form a square. Gates are one in each of two sides. Therefore, the other two sides need 2 x 36 of fencing or 72. WRITE it down. One side has a 6 gate so 30 of fencing is required. The other gate is 3 wide so 33 of fencing is required for the last side. Now add all the fence figures together and we find we need 135 of fencing required. Posts-If we know the fencing we have chosen comes in 6 lengths we will need a post every 6 feet and each side of each gate. A little math shows we need 25 posts. One post every 6, plus one extra to hold the 3 gate. WRITE it down. You will use approximately one bag of bagged concrete per post for anything over 4 high. These are your basic materials plus some misc. nails and scrap lumber for braces are also required. Go purchase your items and place in the area they are to be installed. Pressure treated fence posts come in both round and square shapes. Lengths generally vary from 6 to 12 long. Why so long? If you are installing a 6 fence you will need to bury at least 3 feet in the ground to support it. That means a 9 post. Posts come in other wood types as well. Cedar, redwood, and willow posts are still available in some areas. Willow posts if left untreated can re-root and create a living fence in wet areas.
What is an underground dog fence? An underground dog fence is a system consisting of a radio transmitter, wire that acts as a transmitting antenna and a collar with a receiver that picks up the radio signal from the fence when your dog gets too close. When your dog enters the warning area near the wire the collar beeps warning him to stay back. If he continues to move toward the wire he will receive a static shock or correction. Some systems have progressive corrections so that the closer the dog progresses toward the wire the stronger the static shock he receives. There is some controversy about the humane aspect of delivering a shock to an animal to deter him. Most experts agree however that when an underground dog fence is properly installed and the dog is properly trained to the fence that these systems are very humane and safe. Consider the alternative if your dog runs out into traffic or gets lost. There is some chance of your dog being traumatized by the shock of he is improperly trained and/or the correction levels are too high for your particular dogs size and temperament. Proper training is critical to success with these systems. Yes, it is true that your dog, hopefully, will not like receiving the shock no more than you like touching a door knob and getting a static shock. This is his incentive to avoid the boundary. While the shock is uncomfortable it is not in itself dangerous to the animal. Most systems have automatic shut offs if the animal does not move out of the correction zone to protect him from over correction. Compared to a traditional fence an underground dog fence is fairly easy to install and should take less than a day with most applications. The hardest part of the installation is burying the wire. I offer four methods of burying the wire. The first is to use a straight edge spade shovel and use it to dig down about 3 inches and create a V-shaped trench to lay the wire in. The simply press the sod or dirt back in place. This is the most difficult and time consuming method. The second way is to use a gas powered lawn edger to cut a 3 inch deep trench. Lay the wire in the trench and replace the displaced dirt and press into place. The third method is to rent a trencher with a cable installation attachment. The trencher will cut the trench and lay the wire at the same time. The fourth method is to not bury the wire at all. Instead you can simple lay the wire above ground and use Pet Fence Staples to hold it in place. This method works well for low traffic areas and in grassy areas where the wire will lay deep in the turf. If you have to cross a driveway or sidewalk with the wire you will need to use a masonry blade to cut a groove in the concrete or asphalt and then use caulk to seal the wire into place. There are many factors involved in choosing the right underground dog fence system. Some of these factors are discussed below. Later on Ill make specific recommendations based on these factors. Wireless dog fences are not considered in this discussion.
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